I read Frank Condelli's "how to remove blower motor", but it does not tell you have to remove the blower motor. Any help
ive had a couple vanagons with intermitent headlight / fan issues that i have traced to bad grounds under dash on left side.[flower shaped ground terminals screwed to body], great time to look at wire connections !
I just had my heater blower replaced, and besides the fact that the left ducts were not attached, the speedometer cable was disconnected. After I fixed that, I noticed that the motor vibrates once it gets going. The mechanic said that was unavoidable. The "squirrel cage" was not balanced to the motor. Also, with the resistor we got, medium speed is in the 1 position, and slow speed is in the 2 position. Can these two problems be rectified?
Thanks for all the help with this! I found the motor almost seized up from lack of lube and road salt. A little penetrating oil got it nicely freed up, so I didn't have to split the case. I drilled an access hole in the front sheetmetal so I could lube the bearing regularly without all the disassembly. Preventive maintenance! I covered the hole with a duct tape patch until the next lube.
Frank, all of your suggestions are dead-on. Good show. I've run into an issue regarding the step resistor now available from VW; it is larger/longer than the original and will not fit in the metal cradle that keeps that hot little unit from being in contact with the plastic housing.
Though the resistor is available from VW the needed larger cradle is not available.Go figure. The fix I used is to remove the old cradle, cut the LEFT side tab, find an appropriate piece of thin metal, craft it into an extension to accomodate the new resistor, drill the needed holes to make the extension accomodate the resistor and use sheet metal screws to secure the new appendage together. Glue or even soldering this Frankenstein invention will not work; glue and solder could react unfavorably from the heat over time.Screw it! Additionally, the new resistor pack in no way resembles the original as far as hook-up. Some splicing via electrical schematics are required to know what wire goes where. Once all of this is done a bench test is highly recommended before installing the heat/ac exchanger!
Greg Ashe Village Motor Werks Raleigh NC
It depends on how bad the leak is. Your engnie will overheat and be ruined if you run it without coolant. You can add coolant along the way but run the risk of burning/scalding yourself if you don't know what you are doing. You can add coolant/water mix to the overflow tank and it usually will be sucked back into the radiator. This does not always work. You can bypass the heater core altogether if you are handy by removing the two hoses and connecting them together with the correct size pipe. You can also cut the hoses and install valves from your auto parts store that will cut off the water flow. They even make special vise grips to pinch the hose to stop the flow. I would take the vehicle in and have a mechanic temporarily bypass the heater core for you if you can't afford the new one.
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