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For What It's Worth
Replacing the Slave Cylinder

NOTE**** I would bleed the entire brake and clutch system, or at least the slave- prior to changing the slave. I didn't do this and after putting in the new slave and brake fluid came out black out of the slave - dark brown at the brakes! This way when you (re-)bleed the new slave., you are not passing dirty fluid right through the new slave!
John Reynolds
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On my syncro access to those slave mounting bolts under the bracket -especially the rear one- is very difficult and frustrating. After numerous R+R of transmissions, I found the secret tool that makes it simple: a 12" long 1/4" drive wobble extension. You'll have that puppy loose in just a minute.
Tom F.
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pappy:You def got air in the line. Brake bleeding takes some hntceique. If you have too much air you'll be there forever hand pumping. Try to pick up a cheap brake bleeder kit. If not, fill the reservoir, pump the brake, keep the brake lever held in, just crack the bleeder valve real quick and tight ed it back. Repeat until you start to feel pressure build. Then at some point the fluid will stream when you crack the bleeder. Your close but not done. Now when you crack the valve let it stream until the brake level is ALMOST bottomed out, then tighten. Repeat until you get an stream with no bubbles.One more note and I've had to do this more then once. Sometimes you get a bubble in a spot that wont bleed out. If you loosen the banjo screw at the master cylinder after you have flluid in the system let it sit and the bubble will migrate up. Tighten everything up and procede to bleed.
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